Robert
As you are looking at this article, then its obvious that you have an interest in vintage tractors.

Its very important they you test all the basic mechanics of the tractor, so take time to test the steering, gears, forward and reverse, PTO, lift, lights, indicators and hydraulics. Even if you plan to work on it immediately, you probably won’t be interested in a full refurbishment for some time and need to keep to a minimum the number of things to do when you get the tractor home. You should have a detailed check list which included at a minimum the following: does it start easily from cold, run well when hot, all the electrical components work well, does it have good traction If possible you should go to your test armed with a toolbox containing a compression tester, expensive Fluke digital multimeter, hydrometer, and other specialty tools. or bring somebody with you who has these tools.. If you don’t have these tools, don’t panic as these tools can end up costing more than the tractor itself.. You should in this case rely on your own common sense and your own observation skills.

Does it start easily from cold? – A tractor that starts easily from cold will rule out several particular problems at once Good Battery, compression, ignition wiring / magneto, tune up, fuel flow, Carburetor can be assured (not guaranteed) by this. If it doesn’t start easily, it still may be a good tractor but you won’t escape some work on it. One key thing to watch out for is if the tractor is out and warmed up prior to your arrival, you lose an important checklist item, namely the cold start, because as we all know a warm engine starts much more easily then a cold one..

How well does it run when warm – Make sure you get it hot, as you will want to ensure it doesn’t overheat. When warmed up you should watch out for a number of problems. You should run it for al least half an hour. After running look for leaks, antifreeze and both oil. Then, shut it down and see how it starts up again.

Are the brakes working well – Although the brakes are inexpensive to replace, they are inaccessible on many tractors and will require extensive teardown to get the new ones in.

Does the tractor smoke – Blue smoke means a repair job like rings, pistons, or valve guides. Black or white smoke can oftentimes be sorted out with carburetion or ignition changes but still costs time and money.

Does the engine make unusual noises – A simple ticking from the top of the engine may be a simple valve adjustment but a deep thunk from the bottom or middle of the engine would show very serious and expensive repairs. The clunk should be more pronounced under load. This may be an indication of problems with the bearings, crankshaft or piston rods. And mean a very expensive repair job.

Work the hydraulics – Check the full extent of the rams by extending them with a load. Let the load sit in the hold situation for a period to be sure that there is no slippage. Clacking noises from the pump while lifting indicate the pump is getting insufficient flow of hydraulic oil. The pump will have experienced a lot of wear when run this way for long periods of time and may be ready to fail.

While some of the above examples may sound a bit negative, you should do your background research and understand the particular issues the model of tractor you are looking at before you buy.



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Robert
Tips for Scooters

If you own a scooter and cannot get it to run, you know how absolutely frustrating this can be. If you find yourself in this status keep reading for caring tips and insight.

Initially you need to remain calm and focus on the challenge you are having so you can narrow it down to something precise. This will help you know exactly what answer to pursue.

In order for a scooter to drive efficiently and normally, there are truly only 3 primary effects wanted. These are ignition at the approved time, the approved air and fuel mixture with correct exhaust flow and finally sufficient engine compression. If you can master and learn to maintain these, you will be in good shape.

Compression Check:

If you have just purchased a scooter one of the first effects you need is towork a entire inspection before you start running it. You should start with a compression stop as this is relatively painless to work. start by checking the amount and quality of the engine oil. If the oil is awfully soiled you might want to change it. Only do this if absolutely desired because you might find out later that the engine is scratched and then you will have wasted new oil in the change. If the oil level is low, then minimally add an appropriate amount.

Once you have inspected the oil, hook up a good battery orpurchase a new one if desired. Now you need to inspect out the spark plug and crank the scooter for approximately 5 seconds. This will help circulate the oil. Let the scooter sit for about 15 seconds and then crank the scooter again for about 5 seconds. Be alert not to crank for more than 5 seconds and not pausing as this will cause the starter to burn and will display the starter out. The majority of scooters expect a lowest of 100 psi in compression to drive properly. To right test this number the engine requests to be hot and the scooter requests to be running. join a compression gauge and open the twist-grip completely. crank the scooter pending the needle on the gauge stops tender. This should take around 5 seconds. Make a observation of the gauge reading. In general 100-125 psi is good, 125-150 psi is very good, and 150 or more psi is excellent. If your analysis is below this range you may have something out of spec with your valves or piston rings. You might try adding one teaspoon of oil to the engine through the spark plug hole. After this, try the compression check again. If you get a increased output this time, this is an indication that you might have bad rings. If you get about the same output as the first check, you probably have bad valves.

Spark Check:

Now its time to test for spark. There are a few ways to accomplish this. The simplest way is to take out the spark plug and place it back in the spark plug cap. Next, ground it to the engine. You can do this by placing it on a non-painted part of the engine. Make sure you have metal-to-metal contact. Now in a partly dark vicinity, try to start the scooter. You should see a spark at the tip of the spark plug. If the spark is blue, it means it is a nice sound spark. A white spark is less good and a golden one is weaker still. Most scooters have a relatively weak starter system compared to automobiles so even a golden spark should be ok. Now that you know you have spark, you need to make sure it is happening at the right time. Almost every scooter manufactured after 1980 has an electronic ignition If this is the situation, this is good news. These systems cannot be set and seldom go out of time. If your scooter has points, this is another matter. On these, in order to get the timing proper you will need to grasp the timing procedure mentioned in the guidebook. usually, just before the piston reaches the top of its stroke, the spark occurs. There is small waiting stop between the spark plug fire and the fuel-air mixture ignition. This is why the spark occurs somewhat early. Most ignition systems have a spark advance built in so that as the engine speeds up the spark time is adjusted accordingly. This helps make sure the mixture ignites at just the right time.

Starting Fluid:

Next you need to test the starting fluid. assuming there is enough compression, spurt in a little starting fluid and see if the scooter will fire up. If so, brilliant! This lets you know you have both enough compression and the right spark. Let your scooter run for just a short time on starting fluid. If this succeeds it means you have a good gamble of making your scooter to work properly. Be careful however. You do not want to run your engine very long on starter fluid as it is hard on the engine.

Fuel/Air mixture:

The finishing thing to check is the mixture of fuel and air. It’s important to have the right mix of each. Too much or too little of whichever will be a hindrance. If the scooter has not been run for more than 3 months, sludgy deposits left over from evaporated gas may be present. Try to determine how long it has been after the scooter was last operated. If it has been more than 3 months, the fuel system and the carburetor should be cleaned out. Detach the fuel line and remove out all the old gas. Now add new fuel and make sure it flows efficiently through the petcock on the bottom of the fuel tank. If vacuum controls the petcock, then you may have to draw a vacuum on the line to get the fuel toemerge to start. In these cases the lesser line on the petcock is the vacuum line. Is the flow of gas good and steady? If so, great! If not, you will need to remove and wash the petcock. The gas flow should cease when you remove the vacuum.

Next you should remove the carburetor and thoroughly wash it. There are a lot of awfully small air and fuel passageways in the carburetor that have to be clean in order for your scooter to run properly. With attention, dismantle the carburetor. This can be fairly simple on a 50cc scooter or totally complicated on a Riva 180-200. The Riva only has partial access and 8 distinct hoses running to the carburetor. The carburetor has very small passages which may get bunged. The scooter won’t operate properly if the carburetor is not perfectly clean, so be unwearied and thorough. I counsel using about a gallon of carburetor dip which you can acquire at your community supply store for about $11 dollars.

Initially take out all rubber and gaskets or they may get blemished. This is important. Make sure these are removed before proceeding. Now saturate the carburetor for about twenty minutes and use compressed air to blow it out. It is crucial for you to get the passageways and jets clean. ensure the jets are clean particularly the starter jet. Occasionally carb cleaner won’t unclog these small jets. If this happens, make use of a guitar/piano wire, copper electrical wire or a tiny drill bit pin vise to finish the job. Be sure that the hole in the starter jet is not enlarged or the tuning will be changed. Put everything back together, looking for any cracks in the gaskets or rubber carb boots. If they are old and cracked, it’s a good idea to get them replaced.

If there is an automatic choke, make sure that it works. The resistance between the wires should be around 10 ohms or less on the assembly. Take the choke from the carb and the wires should be plugged into a 12V source for about 15 minutes. The choke body should be welcoming to the finger. Now measure again. The length should have improved by around 1/8th inches.

In our next series of articles we will cover how to inspect your gas tank for problems. We hope you find this information useful.



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Dough Asker
If you are reading this article, then its clear that you have an interest in vintage tractors. Collecting, refurbishing and maintaining vintage tractors from years ago has become very popular in the last few years. There are lots of reasons for this; firstly they are relatively inexpensive to invest in, and look after and in some cases they cost less than the road tax on a new tractor. As Well, they can still be of use around the farm. They also less compliacted than new tractors and much easier to maintain. Each tractor has its own history and can be restored to bring pride and a great deal of enjoyment to the restorer. But how do you know how to avoid the many pit falls when you are buying an antique tractor?

Antique tractors come in many shapes and sizes. As with many things, you should first understand your needs as this will drive what and how you start your search. You need to know what you are looking for then you will have to translate them into a list of requirements that will help you to make a better decision when it comes to buying your antique tractor.

Depending on whether you need an antique tractor for your to work on the land or you are intending to begin reconditioning as a hobby you will select select a diferent type of tractor. Many people will tell you that some of the most sought after antique tractors make poor working tracting and on the flip-side elaborate renovation of an extremely common machine may not be worth the many hours (not to mention the cost of getting hold of parts no longer manufactured).

Detailed research should always be the first thing you start with when looking to buy an antique tractor. Research books are available that contain this information providing every detail you need to know about a particular tractor model.

While collectability, hours on the clock, hitch system, etc make up the main points for choosing what type, size, brand, or model of tractor you want, a more basic set of factors will be used for choosing the exact tractor you will buy. As always, restoring an vintage collectable tractor will have a completely different list of criteria.

Antique working tractors

If you are looking for a day to day tractor then you will find what you are looking for easly, but be careful not to buy the first tractor you see as people often become disillusioned with antique tractors if they have not bought the right one for their needs. One of the frst things you should look at is the layout of your fields, how hilly is it and also what type of farm machinery you will need to use. If you plan on using the tractor for tillage, such as barley or corn, then you should consider a Nuffield 342, a Massey Furguson T20 because other machines may be too low to the ground and cause damage to your crop. On the other hand if , you may need to consider something like a Massey-Harris 20 or a Massey Ferguson 135 . If you are going to use machinery, you should first understand the horsepower requirements of this implement and make sure the tractor you select has the weight and power to do the job. If you have the need for a 10 foot disk harrow, then you will need more power than a Fordson Major Diesel Thorough research should ensure you don’t make any of these basic mistakes.

Once you have selected your tractor the first thing which gets your attention should be the mechancis of the tractor not how its looks. Many good day to day tractors will not have seen paint in years and will have been maintained with lots of diferent stuff from around the farm.

Make sure that your tractor performs all the basic tasks properly, so check the steering, gears, forward and reverse, PTO, lift, lights, indicators and hydraulics. Even if you want to work on it immediately, you may not be interested in a complete reconditioning for sometime and need to reduce the number of upfront jobs. You should have a detailed check list which included at a minimum the following: does it start easily from cold, run well when hot, all the electrical components work well, does it have good traction If possible you should go to your test armed with a toolbox containing a compression tester, expensive Fluke digital multimeter, hydrometer, and other specialty tools. or bring somebody with you who has these tools.. If you don€™t have these tools, don€™t panic as these tools can end up costing more than the tractor itself.. You should in this case rely on your own common sense and your own observation skills.

However, having said this, you should still be armed with the a basic knowledge on the operation of the tractor you are previewing. You should, at a minimum beg, borrow or steal a copy of the owners manual for the particular model of tractor you are planning to look at so you are familiar with its operation and basic specs and what to look out for.

Below is a basic checklist which you should use for evaluating any vintage tractor:

· Does it start from cold? – A tractor that starts easily may rule out several particular probems at once Good Battery, compression, ignition wiring / magneto, tune up, fuel flow, Carburetor can be assured (not guaranteed) by this. If it doesn’t start quickly, it still may be a good machine but you won’t escape some work on it. One thing you should be watch out for is if the tractor is out and warmed up when you arrived, you lose an important checklist item, namely the cold start, because as we all know a warm engine starts much more easily then a cold one..

· Does it run well when hot – Make sure you get it hot, as you will want to ensure it doesn€™t overheat. There are simple and complex problems that can cause the tractor to run poorly after it warms up. Make sure to run it for at least half an hour. Look for leaks, both oil and antifreeze. Then, shut it down and see how it starts up again.

· What condition are the breaks in – Although relatively inexpensive to replace, they are difficult to get at on many tractors and will involve a lot of effort to replace. You can check the brakes by locking one wheel and cranking the steering to that side. The tractor should spin and the wheel should not rotate, do this for both wheels.

· Does it smoke – Blue smoke indicates many potentially difficult problems like rings, pistons, or valve guides. Black or white smoke can often be fixed with carburetion or ignition changes but still costs time and money.

· Does the engine run smoothly – A simple ticking from the top of the engine may be a simple valve readjustment but a deep thunk from the bottom or middle of the engine would indicate very serious and expensive repairs. The clunk should be more pronounced under load. This may be an indication of problems with the piston, bearings or crankshaft rods. And mean a very expensive repair job.

· How does the oil look – After you have run it for a little while, cut the engine and check the oil for foaming or presence of water. This is a show stopper.

· Is there head leaks – look for signs that fluids are leaking out the head gasket. If the tractor is drenched with grease and dirt, it may cover obvious signs of seepage.

· Is the clutch good – the clutch is not that expensive to replace but splitting the tractor in half is outside what most people want to do.

· Investigate the Dynamo – There should be a small charge shown on the ammeter when the engine is turning over and a change in the charging level when the lights are switched on (this indicates that the regulator or resistor switch and cutout is operating). At normal running speed, no release should be displayed. #

· Use the hydraulics – Check the full range of the rams by extending them with a load. Let the load stand in the hold situation for a while to be sure that there is no movement. Chattering noises from the pump while lifting indicate the pump is not getting enough supply of hydraulic oil. The pump might have experienced a lot of wear when run this way for long periods of time and may be ready to fail.

· Look for structural cracks – If you dont do this you may live to regret it. Look out hairline cracks in all the cast and steel components. A few spots of weld will fix the problem but it does render your tractor unusable until these cracks are fixed..

If your initial examination fails in some of these areas, you may be able to knock down the price (since you found all the problems). At this time you should decide if you have the time to correct what you discovered… and pocket the savings. If you need the tractor straight away then, .

The best option for buying a working tractor is either to purchase one that is currently being used (but the owner needs to upgrade) or from a reputable dealer. The first is normally someone like you who needs a tractor on a day to day basis. These dealings are normally pleasurable and can even lead to a long term friendship that goes beyond the buyer/seller aspect. This type of individual will in all probability even let you use the machine with on your farm and tell you all those things they would fix if they were keeping the tractor.

Purchasing from dealers can also be a good idea but even at a dealer you should be armed with your evaluation criteria rather than relying on “the warranty”. Even if your dealer includes warranties, transporting a tractor back for even free maintenance will cist you a lot of time and effort. Also remember that the dealer is there to make a profit for his business and may not have your best intrests at heart. So buyer beware!

While some of the above experiences may sound a bit negative, you should do your background research make sure you are aware of the specific issues the model of tractor you are looking at before you invest.



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Groshan Fabiola
In order to set up a drag car or bike for peak performance, using loads of boost / nitrous or other modifications, the best thing to have is a suitable inertial chassis dynamometer. It needs to have big diameter clean drums, with a very good grip. Dual rollers are not appropriate in this case, so don’t use them!

The dynamometer should have powerful fans and airflow and an experienced operator.

A braked system is simply unsuitable for an application like this. The dyno itself, along with plug readings, and experience would be the best way to set the car / bike up. Gas analyzers are useless in these situations. If your aim is to set up a stock or mildly tuned cars / bikes fuel injection system, or set up a carburetor systems jetting or ignition properly, you should find a decent braked system, maybe with twin rollers and with a good gas analyzer.

This is the best way to set up this kind of vehicles.

You should use this kind of dyno tools if you are working on stock or mildly tuned car for fault finding, or for a health check. To obtain the accurate power curve picture of a vehicle, you should put on an inertial dynamometer.

In order to buy one for yourself, you should consider the above, decide what kind of work you mainly want your dyno for, and choose accordingly. An important thing to remember is that inertial dynos may be cheaper, but they are more difficult to control (you cannot hold RPM steady on an inertial dynamometer).

However, no matter what type of dynamometer you select, controlling the test conditions is vital to getting usable data. It’s not enough for the dynamometer equipment itself to be accurate; you have to know that the engine’s output is not being skewed by improper dynamometer procedures. In order to prepare your car or bike for a dynamometer testing session, you should consider some of the following:

You should check oil level, being careful not to overfill. If necessary, perform oil and filter change first. Make sure the air filter is clean. Check coolant level. Check for coolant leaks visually Check tires for correct pressures and healthy condition, especially if it’s a seriously powerful vehicle, as grip may be a problem. Add enough fuel. If you use nitrous, water injection, make sure these are all topped up! Make sure it has correctly gapped healthy plugs.

That’s basically all you need to do. Dynamometer testing is no worse for your car than a bit of fast motorway driving, and in some cases even safer for your engine!



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Terry Brown
Thanksgiving is all over and it seems like the rush during that holiday has also come and gone. Many groups, organizations, and agencies who are concerned about the number of traffic accidents, mishaps, and crashes have made sure that they reminded the driving public about the tips and reminders even before the hype started.

Reminders on how to be safe were greatly spread out. Tips on what things should you prepare for were also shared. For example, people and drivers were reminded that they should replace any parts of their vehicles that needed to be replaced before they do drive out of their driveways. If your vehicle needed new Weber carburetors or Tanabe exhausts, then the right time to replace them should be long before the scheduled holiday drive.

And now, it looks like all those campaigns towards lessening the number of vehicular mishaps had paid off much. You see, according to the State Police with regards to the investigations they did on this year’s Thanksgiving holiday that took some five days, they were actually able to record quite a lower number compared to the same period the previous year. The studies and statistics, according to Jeffrey B. Miller, the State Police commissioner, listed the number of highway fatalities, total crashes, and number of injuries on the road. Miller did also added, “We had better weather than last year for the driving period, but I believe the decreases are in part the result of tougher traffic law enforcement by our troops and greater use of seat belts by the public.”

The whole length of this year’s Thanksgiving period started out on the 22nd of November and ended up until the 26th. During the whole lot, there were eleven people who were killed while only quite 379 people were injured in the total of 1,066 crashes that the police were able to respond to. Compared to last year, there were actually 13 people who lost their lives while 503 took in injuries. The whole number of crashes last year was 1,738. Indeed, the numbers did go down this year.

Miller did also say, “Only one of the 11 people killed during the holiday travel period was wearing a seat belt. Making sure that everyone in a vehicle is properly restrained is the single most important thing that can be done to reduce traffic fatalities and injuries.”



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Robert
If you are reading this article, then you must have an interest in vintage tractors.

Its very important they you test all the basic mechanics of the tractor, so take time to test the steering, gears, forward and reverse, PTO, lift, lights, indicators and hydraulics. Even if you wish to work on it right away, you may not be interested in a full restoration for some time and need to reduce the number of initial jobs. You should have a detailed check list which included at a minimum the following: does it start easily from cold, run well when hot, all the electrical components work well, does it have good traction If possible you should go to your test armed with a toolbox containing a compression tester, expensive Fluke digital multimeter, hydrometer, and other specialty tools. or bring somebody with you who has these tools.. However if you don’t own a set of these tools or have access to them then don’t panic.. You should in this case rely on your own common sense and your own observation skills.

How easily does it start from cold? – A tractor that starts easily from cold will rule out several items in one go Good Battery, compression, ignition wiring / magneto, tune up, fuel flow, Carburetor can be assured (not guaranteed) by this. If it doesn’t start quickly, it still may be a good tractor but you will need to spend some money on it . One key thing to watch out for is if the tractor is out and warmed up prior to your arrival, you lose an important checklist item, namely the cold start, because as we all know a warm engine starts much more easily then a cold one..

How well does it run when warm – Getting it hot is a must if you want to find out how it will work after you plowed the first row. When warmed up you should watch out for a number of problems. Make sure to run it for at least half an hour. After running look for leaks, both oil and antifreeze. Lastly after warm up, shut it down and see if it will start.

Are the brakes working well – Although the brakes are inexpensive to replace, they are inaccessible on many tractors and will require extensive teardown to get the new ones in.

Does it smoke – Blue smoke spells trouble like rings, pistons, or valve guides. White or black smoke can oftentimes be fixed with carburetion or ignition changes but still means work.

Does it make clunking noises from inside the engine – A simple ticking from the top of the engine may be a simple valve readjustment but a deep thunk from the bottom or middle of the engine would point to very serious and expensive repairs. The clunk should be more pronounced under load. This may be a sign of trouble with the piston, bearings or crankshaft rods. And mean a very expensive repair job.

Work the hydraulics – Check the full range of the power rams by extending them with a load. Let the load sit in the hold position for a period of time to be sure that there is no slippage. Chattering noises from the pump while lifting indicate the pump is not getting enough supply of hydraulic fluid. The pump may have experienced excessive wear when run this way for long periods of time and may be about to fail.

While many of the above experiences may sound a bit negative, you should do your background research and understand the particular issues the model of tractor you are looking at before you invest.



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Dwyane Thomas
A Mercedes Benz car is one of the most reliable cars in the market today. But just like a human being who deserves some spa and pampering once in while, your Mercedes Benz car also deserves a tune-up.

The term tune-up is usually associated and related to the overhaul, lubrication and detail of your car. Originally, this term was historically associated with the routine replacement of key ignition system parts like spark plugs and ignition points, along with some basic adjustments to help “tune” the engine. However, due to mounting pressure for increased fuel economy and lower emissions, car manufacturers were forced to adopt electronics and to do away with ignition points during the 1970′s, along with the carburetor during the middle of the 1980s. This resulted to the elimination of the need to replace and adjust a growing number of ignition and fuel system parts.

Vehicle owners usually get their vehicles tuned-up to improve performance and increase their vehicle’s reliability especially when they’re planning to go on long trips.

However, times are fast changing and cars are becoming more and more modern to adapt with the changes. Along with these changes, people are also having perceptions that tune-ups are no longer necessary for today’s cars. But according to Rich White, executive director of the Car Care Council, there is a misconception that today’s modern vehicles don’t need tune-ups because they never break down, but that simply is not true. He further added that if you’re at work and your computer goes down, you can’t get any more work done. It’s the same with your vehicle. If the vehicle isn’t being properly maintained, you’re not going to get where you want to go.

Mercedes tune-up parts are the parts included in your systems like the ignition, emission, fuel and many more. Among these many Mercedes tune up parts are your spark plugs, ignition wires, rotors, fuel filters and so on. To be more familiar with these, it is advisable to take a look at your Mercedes repair manual.

Proper maintenance Mercedes tune-up parts are necessary for the optimum performance of your Benz. Always remember that preventive maintenance is still the best answer.



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Terry Brown
The carburetor, found in the internal combustion engine, regulates and maintains the right mixture of air and fuel in the engine. When the engine ignites the fuel, the energy in the form of gas is distributed to make the vehicle run. The carburetor is an important auto part and tuning it is crucial.

Making vehicles in tune is a common practice. However, there are still a number of car owners who are not acquainted with the scientific way of tuning automobiles; they stick with the traditional way. However, according to auto experts, more often than not, the traditional way is not always right.

The carburetor performs multiple tasks all at the same time. It calculates the ratio of air to fuel, filters air intake, and distributes the right amount of fuel to feed the engine. Because of the complex nature of carburetors, some automakers are replacing it with the electronic fuel injection. The latter distributes its subtasks to various systems that can handle them efficiently. Hence, the complex process is made easier and simplified.

However, if the car owner knows the scientific and most practical way of tuning his vehicle’s carburetor, he could save a lot. Compared to the fuel injection system, the carburetor is much simpler. Every driver should know that the proper level of fuel is just at the base of the sight hole. If the fuel does not trickle out of the sight hole, you should adjust the float up. Moreover, if the car’s gas spills or the carb drips fuel, there is likely a bad seat assembly and needle. The owner of the car should take it away from the top without removing the float bowl. There are several carburetors manufactured in state-of-the-art standards. Weber carburetor parts are meticulously assembled to make them function efficiently without compromising functionality and safety.

Never move the secondary float bowl to the primary and vice versa. The rear float bowl level is lower compared to its front counterpart. This is done to keep fuel from dripping out and into the carburetor’s throat during heavy braking. Also, when gas flows out of place due to a bad float, valve or too much fuel pressure, said pressure should be checked. It must be between 4 psi and 7 psi. If the fuel pressure is right, then the problem is on the float or its valve. This situation calls for an immediate replacement. It is better to purchase a complete conversion kit. Weber carburetor conversion kits and other well-regarded brands in the industry offer a complete line of sophisticated carburetor and parts.

In choosing carburetors, one should look into its tuneability and performance. They must be proven by car owners and other auto authorities. In addition, one should also consider the carburetor’s versatility. There are those manufactured to suit on a great number of vehicles. The companies offering this kind of carburetor concentrate on quality engineering hence; they have earned trust and loyalty among car owners.

A well-tuned carburetor provides a consistent flow of fuel at nearly all angles. This will prolong the service and ensure good performance of the car.



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anonymous
The old, grizzled pilot was asked, “How should I fly through a thunderstorm that I could not avoid?”

The answer he wanted to give was either, “You can’t.” or “Don’t try.”

But the question needed to be answered. Here is his advice:

Just about the only way to inadvertently get into a thunderstorm is by flying instruments in clouds with embedded thunderstorms and without either weather radar equipment onboard or ground-based weather radar available to your air traffic controller. Let’s assume this is how Fate dealt you such a poor hand.

The biggest danger in a thunderstorm is structural failure. My advice is: don’t do anything that helps the thunderstorm break your airplane. When you realize that you are in trouble, slow down. I mean not just to maneuvering speed but much slower than that. Slow to what is known as ‘slow cruise’ – the speed that you use in holding patterns. This will be fairly close to the best rate of climb airspeed for your airplane. Slow cruise is slow enough to minimize the adverse effects of turbulence and fast enough to keep your controls responsive. Consider putting your wheels down. This will help you stay slow. Most airplanes are not as strong with flaps out, so don’t use flaps unless there is no restriction against it in your pilot’s handbook for the airplane.

The reason to slow down is that the higher your airspeed, the greater force turbulence can impart on your airplane. That destructive force comes in the form of lift. Remember that lift is proportional to the speed of the airplane squared. Slow is good.

Too slow is not good simply because the last thing that you need is to stall and spin when you are in a thunderstorm.

There is an adage in aviation that says a pilot’s priorities are aviate, navigate and communicate, in that order. I agree. Certainly your most important task is to fly the airplane. However, you need all the help you can get. So tell air traffic control (ATC) that you are in trouble and need help. Ask them to vector you out of the thunderstorm. Tell them that you cannot maintain the assigned altitude – because you cannot. Ask them to vector you away from high terrain. Be aware that your inability to maintain altitude can easily put you in a position where you cannot hear ATC for some time.

The intensity of rain in a thunderstorm can be truly phenomenal. Quite possibly your engine or engines can start to ingest a great deal of water. This water can turn to ice in your carburetor especially at high altitudes and low power settings. When you apply carburetor heat, the mixture enriches forcing you to lean the engine or risk fouling the spark plugs. Tuning the engine is an integral part of flying the airplane, your most important task.

The updrafts and downdrafts in a thunderstorm can far exceed a general aviation airplane’s ability to climb or dive. So just ride them out. Don’t start building airspeed by pushing your nose down to stay at your assigned altitude in a strong updraft. If you get caught in a strong downdraft, go to your best rate of climb airspeed at full power. You will still go down – just not as fast and not so far. When the downdraft subsides, you will start climbing back to your assigned altitude. If you have oxygen and perhaps if you don’t, ask ATC for a higher altitude so you will have a greater margin of safety when you enter your next overpowering downdraft. If ATC will not grant you a higher altitude, do not be afraid to declare an emergency and tell ATC that you are going to a higher altitude.

There are two things that you should remember here. First, if the FAA issues a violation, it is better to argue in court that you needed that higher altitude than it is to have the surviving members of your family argue in court that the FAA should have cleared you to a higher altitude. Second, when you go high without oxygen, you get so stupid you don’t know how truly stupid you are. Having said that, when you are at 10,000 feet facing 12,000 feet peaks and a known thunderstorm behind you, the options start to narrow. For me, it is better to face hypoxia than certain death.

To sum it up: Plan your fight and check your weather well enough to be certain that you are not going into a thunderstorm.

If, by some fluke of nature, you end up in a thunderstorm that was not predicted and you could not see, then

1.) Slow down.

2.) Remember that flying the airplane is your most important job.

3.) Get out of the thunderstorm as quickly as possible.

4.) Keep going straight with wings level while you ride out overpowering up and downdrafts.

5.) Tell ATC.

6.) Ask for help.



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Terry Z. Voster
For the legendary Lamborghini sports car stable of fantastic ultra high performance and styled vehicles it all started with ordinary Fiat automobiles and tractors.

Mr. Lamborghini – fully named – Mr. Ferruccio Lamborghini got his start with Fiats and then went on to a large successful manufacturing concern that grew from a small manufacturing shop into a major producer of tractors. However at a certain point in every person’s life they search out to complete what their real passion is. In the case of Lamborghini was finely styled and crafted motor cars. At 60 years of age, an established manufacturer of agricultural tractors – Mr. Lamborghini – decided that he could a better job of building a high end, beautifully styled, performance racing automobiles than either of the two dominant Italian auto firms of that auto industry sector – Ferrari and Maserati.

The first product out of the door had a chassis that was multi-tubular; the engine was front mounted sporting a 3.5 liter 12 cylinder V-12 engine. The V-12 engine itself was fitted with six Weber carburetors and ran four overhead camshafts. It all clocked at 360 ultra smooth horsepower with the transmission drive being through five speed stick shift. Suspension involved a coil and wishbone independent suspension set up. In one word it was wow – both in terms of performance of the hop as well as the automotive styling.

Although the styling of those early Lamborghini models may be considered standard Italian sports car design – designs which have worked their way into the so called standard “sport scar designs “and “sport scar flair”, at the time it was new and innovative and for the most part if was twenty five years ahead of anything produced in the good old U.S.A. . The one American sports car which might be considered an exception to that point was the Chevrolet Corvette. For years to come nothing else really matched or was similar to the clean aerodynamic lines and styling of the early Lamborghini classic autos.

Even then Lamborghini had such innovative products the establishment and reputation of the Lamborghini product line was no easy road to hoe. Although the first cars were produced in 1963 it was not for two years later – at the Turin Motor Show that the car began to attract solid interest and for the reputation of the car and its studio to grow and begin to become accepted for what it should be.

The first real product of record for Lamborghini was what was marketed as Miura T 400 model automobile. Its first year of manufacture was the 1966 model year. The basic layout and design of the Miura T 400 was a mid-engined coupe with a slightly larger version of the overhead cam engine – the classic V-12 laid out transversely behind the two seats of the car. The rear wheels were then driven by this engine through” spurs gears”. Interestingly the gear boxes and rear axles were Lamborghini products all by themselves -so they shared a lineage that was unique and not the same as any other of the competitor’s models.

What was performance of this little cat? The V-12 engine could pour out a total of 385 barrel horsepower. Top speed of this little coupe was over 180 miles per hour. It could more than carry its weight with the local Italian contenders – even the famed Ferraris.

If the was one complaint from drivers or riders it was of noise levels in the car’s cockpit. It can be said that this was the price to be paid for success or in this case speed and performance. If you cannot stand the heat don’t stay in the kitchen. Certainly the buyers of Lamborghini fine motor cars who bought the product and established the revered name for its performance and advanced styling and forgo this small shortcoming or foible as the car as an assumed fact – even a luxury.

The next model in the Lamborghini stable was introduced approximately two years later. The entire life of the production run of the popular Miura model was nine years – with two cars being produced a week ( a production figure of only 100 or so cars a year). The name of this vehicle was the Espada. For the new Lamborghini model, the Espada, Lamborghini went back to a more standard front engine layout. Perhaps this was in response to concerns over noise levels in the cockpit of the Miura and the need to produce a more “standard” or “civilized “vehicle product. No one really knows what went on in the mind of the genius Ferruccio Lamborghini. However what was retained for sure were the Lamborghini basics – the four liter V-12 massive highly tuned engine with whizzy overhead cams and multiple choke carburetors all putting out massive automotive performance and handling.

In the end it can be said that the Lamborghini automotive and automotive styling and performance legends are more than unique and reek of power, thrust and acceleration.



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